Delicately placed on a mother-of-pearl dial, hand-painted carp and sculpted lotuses surround a flying tourbillon. Arnold & Son presents the Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi, a delicate unique piece that blends fine watchmaking and the artistic crafts. The House showcases its broad spectrum of skills within a red-gold case measuring 8.34 mm thick. Here, the finest craftsmanship builds on tried-and-tested watchmaking technique.

The New Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi
Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi

Arnold & Son is highlighting its tradition of bespoke watch creations. Ever attentive to the wishes of its customers, the brand is offering them the chance to personalise its collections. Customers can apply substantial changes, making a case, movement or dial unique through engraving, gem-setting, miniature painting or sculpted elements.

Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi
Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi

One of the models that is particularly well suited to this exercise is the Ultrathin Tourbillon, with its off-centred dial at 12 o’clock. This arrangement frees up space to provide an empty canvas that can be filled with whatever the customer desires.

Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi Dial
Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi

Beneath the surface

In the same vein, the Swiss brand with English roots presents the Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi, a unique piece that depicts two carp gliding between lotus blossoms. Koi are a popular theme in traditional Japanese art and inspire tranquillity. Above and beyond their beauty and serenity, they are a symbol of perseverance in the face of adversity.

A Tancho carp, recognisable thanks to the large red mark on its head, swims on the right-hand side of the dial. Peering out from beneath the sleeve, it is the first to be seen when checking the time. The scene continues with another koi in shades of white and orange gracing the other side of the dial.

Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi
Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi

A pond in full bloom

Above these ornamental carp float three lotus blossoms. The petals are cut from silver and shaped, before being engraved, polished and painted in dazzling white lacquer. Each flower’s pistil is formed separately using the same techniques, then the two parts are combined.

The carp and lotus leaves, meanwhile, are painted by hand using incredibly thin brushes that allow a wealth of details to be added, such as scales, barbels and striped fins. The base of the dial is made from blue-toned mother-of-pearl, its iridescent shimmer evoking the water in which this charming scene unfolds.

Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi
Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi

A ripple of opportunity

Beneath this poetic depiction of pond life, Arnold & Son draws on the vast possibilities presented by the calibre A&S8200. Its thickness of 2.97 mm puts it within touching distance of the all-time records for thinness in this category.

The movement displays the hours and minutes in an off-centred dial at 12 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, an aperture reveals a tourbillon whose construction is special in more ways than one.

Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi In House Movement
Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi

Movement in the water

First and foremost, the tourbillon is a ‘flying’ variety, meaning that it only has a lower carriage bridge. Since the top is not held in place, a few precious millimetres of height can be saved, thus freeing up the view of this timekeeping mechanism. The balance, meanwhile, is off-centred from the carriage axis, creating a dynamic visual impression as the tourbillon rotates. Another distinctive feature is the balance bridge, which is domed and extends slightly from the dial, ensuring that the rest of the movement is unaffected by the total height. This, in turn, makes the tourbillon’s rotation all the more spectacular. The effect is further accentuated by the skeletonised main plate located just beneath the tourbillon.

Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi Men Watches
Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi

The resulting transparency creates an ethereal impression consistent with the refined theme of the Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi. Finally, this manually wound movement features an exceptional 90-hour power reserve – another technical signature of the House.

Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi Watch Review
Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi


Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi

Technical specifications:

Reference: 1UTAR.M99A.

Functions: hours, minutes


·       Calibre: A&S8200, 1-minute flying tourbillon, manual winding

·       Jewels: 29

·       Diameter: 32.00 mm

·       Thickness: 2.97 mm

·       Power reserve: 90 hours

·       Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vph

·       Finishes:

1.    main plate: Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the centre and hand-engraved tourbillon bridge

2.    bridges: polished and chamfered by hand

3.    wheels: circular satin-finished

4.    screws: blued and chamfered, mirror-polished heads

5.    tourbillon carriage: satin-finished, polished and chamfered

Dial: miniature painting on black mother-of-pearl; silver lotus flowers, engraved and painted by hand


·       Material: 18-carat red gold (5N)

·       Diameter: 42.00 mm

·       Thickness: 12.23 mm (with crystal)

·       Crystaldomed sapphire with an anti-reflective coating on both sides

·       Case back: sapphire crystal

·       Water-resistance: 30 metres / 100 feet


Material: hand-stitched alligator leather

Buckle  pin buckle, 18-carat red gold (5N)

The price for the Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi ref. 1UTAR.M99A. is CHF 89,000 excl. tax and is a unique piece.

For more information please visit Arnold & Son Online.