Independent Swiss watchmaker Urwerk has always championed innovation. And its latest model, the UR-111C - now in a striking Two-Tone (TT) black PVD and brushed steel, teardrop profile case - is no exception. Certainly, as part of the “Special Projects” line - a deviation from the wandering hour indications for which Urwerk has become well-known - it’s one of the most conceptually adventurous watches on the market.

The New Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone
Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone

The Urwerk UR-111C TT comes with three key advances for watchmaking. The first is a retrograde linear minute display in an end-mounted driver’s watch style. This is a spinoff of the mechanism invented for the Urwerk UR-CC1. With a twist.  Here the numerals are set in a 30° diagonal slant for a better readability.

Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone Watch Review
Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone

This means that the rotating cylinder onto which the minute indicator is painted must rotate 300 degrees about its axis, during which a coiled spring is wound. At the 60th minute, the spring is released, making the indicator jump a further 60 degrees and back to the start position. But it also makes the hour indicator to its left jump too. The result is a pleasing optical illusion of the cylinder rotating endlessly and seamlessly.

Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone Men Watches
Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone

The second innovation is the seconds display. Openwork Arabic numerals are set onto two wheels, each graduated in ten second increments. Each wheel is made using a cutting edge process of lithography, electroplating and moulding devised precisely for the creation of very light and specific structures. Indeed, each wheel, complete with its six numerals, weighs just 0.025g - and that’s just as well, given the delicate dance that the two will now take part in.

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Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone

Interlocking like the teeth on cogs, they show a smooth progression of passing seconds. But how is the wearer to see such small-scale elements? They move - at a distance of just one tenth of a millimetre - under what looks to be a kind of circular lens, but which is a cluster of optical fibres.

Hands On Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone Watch
Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone

The third and, in many ways, most stimulating new concept that the UR-111C introduces is its fresh take on the crown, for winding and setting. Doing away with the conventional, side-mounted winder, Urwerk’s new piece introduces a roller system, positioned right across the middle of the case top. Rolling will further charge the watch’s self-winding movement. When small lever to the right side of the case is released, the same roller can be used to set the time, with stop-seconds functionality.

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Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone

Of course, arranging all these micro-mechanics to create the end form of the UR-111C watch has been no easy task. The transmission had to be reimagined to allow a horizontal movement to provide a vertical time read-out within the crystal glass-covered truncated cones to both sides of the linear display. Connecting a roller crown to the winding stem likewise took feats of engineering, minuscule in scale but no less striking in effect.

Best Watch of 20202 Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone
Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone

But that precisely follows the design ethos of Urwerk’s co-founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei. More than just telling the time in sophisticated fashion, the UR-111C TT embodies both a visual and, especially unusually in watchmaking, a tactile treat for its owner. They’re ones which will sustain interest and intrigue alike through lifelong wear.

Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone
Urwerk UR-111C Two-Tone

Ureverk UR-111C TT

Technical specifications:

Movement:

·       Calibre: Self-winding calibre with stop seconds

·       Jewels: 37

·       Escapement: Swiss lever

·       Frequency: 4 Hz

·       Power reserve: 48 hours

·       Materials: Anodized aluminium cylinder; LIGA-processed nickel second wheels.

·       Surface finishes: Circular graining, sanding, Côtes de Genève, polished screw heads.

Indications: Jumping hours, retrograde linear minutes, digital minutes, digital seconds.

Case:

·       Dimensions: Width 42mm x length 46mm x thickness 15mm

·       Glass: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

·       Water resistance: Pressure tested to 3ATM / 100ft / 30m

The price for the Ureverk UR-111C TT is CHF 130,000.00 (Swiss francs / tax not included) and is limited edition of 25 pieces.

For more information please visit Urwerk Online.